How its done......................
| first
off, a group shot of all of the wax skulls on their wax tree. the bright
red thin wax lines are all vents, which will eventually allow air to
escape so that the entire shifter knob will fill out. these things require
alot of venting, as you can see, and each one is attached by
melting/welding it to the piece and another vent going up to the top of
the cup. i think everybody's knobs oughta be visible in this one, with 16 of the 32 pilots i am casting this go around in the front, followed by firemen, more pilots, and some others in the back. up until this point is what took so damned long, as there was alot of work in getting the few imperfections incurred in wax casting fixed and ready for this stage. doing 97 knobs and some other things, and it really filled up my time. |
| after
all of the waxes are "chased (what we call the clean up work),"
"sprued (attached to the 'tree' for dipping)" and vented, i then
start the ceramic shell process. each piece will be dipped in a ceramic
slurry up to 9 times. the first two coats involve a thicker solution with
very fine particles, onto which very fine sand is sifted for body and
strength in the ceramic. the next two coats use a slightly coarser sand,
and the remaining coats use coarser yet sand and a runnier slurry with
less fine particles in it. the final coat is a "sealer" and
eliminated the sand application to seal in the layers and sand so that it
cannot be rubbed off. in this picture, the trees of shifters are visible with just the first coat on them. in the lower right corner is a small shot of the slurry tank, which must always spin to keep the particles agitated. sitting still for only 5 minuts can cause the particles to settle, which can bury the agitator paddle. the bottom literally starts to rise as this happens. if there is a power outage, it takes 24 hours to chop up this settling AFTER we pry the agitator paddle out of each tank. that's a pretty rough task in itself. just before i came in tonight i finished the second coat and should finish up the ceramic shells by sunday or monday. my next post will talk about melting the wax out of the shells, and then casting after that.
one last note, you might notice how yellow-green the tank is, and how
the trees of skull sare a little orange. we use a dye additive that is
orange in the absence of water and yellow-green when in the presence of
it. one of the ingredients in the slurry is distilled water, and this
allows us to be certain that shells are dry. when my dad first started
casting bronze, we hadn't discovered this, and the shells were snow
white when they were sopping wet and bone dry... makes it alot easier to
get it right, because repeated wet coats cause weak shells. with bronze,
there is much more pressure than aluminum, and blow-outs are more likely
if a weak spot in the shell exists. the bronze is poured at over 2000
degrees, 300 lbs. at a time. that amount of metal at that temperature
can be interesting, i'll save those stories for another time.
also note that everything, the sprues, vents, and skulls are being covered with ceramic, and this shell will grow with each dip until it is about 1/4" -3/8" thick... |
| here's
the next step of the process. in the lower right you can see the shells
with wax still inside them, ceramic dipping recently completed. i've made
sure the tops of the cups have been cut off to allow wax to drip out, and
drilled a few vent holes in the main sprues so ease these things as the
wax melts. the main picture is of the loaded kiln, wax dripping and
burning out of the shells. this kiln is a large stainless chamber with a
propane burner and reaches 1500+ degree f. a hydraulic ram from an old
garage lifts the rack of shells into the kiln where it is held by a pair
of levers and the ram retracted. wax runs out the grating that makes the
floor of the rack. after the wax stops, about an hour later i pulled the
shells, slightly glowing from heat, out of the kiln and rolled them to a
safe spot to cool. the white shells in the lower right are the freshly
burned-out shells, now ceramic molds.
|
| alrighty!
so i poured around 100 lbs. of #356 aluminum today, and here's how it
went. first off, there's a large picture of my pouring rig. the two sets
of tongs, one for lifting, one for pouring, were made by my dad when he
first started casting bronze. they've upgraded to a 300 lb. crucible and
an overhead hoist to pour with, so when i set out to build a casting
setup, these were just about right. the inset picture is FLAME ON in my
little furnace. i built this thing myself a little over a year ago, if
memory serves. the blower and burner behind the furnace is a pretty
antique item. reconditioned and refreshed when they started pouring bronze
and like the tongs, not big enough anymore. the burner pipe i rigged up
myself from the design used by my father. we use propane gas and this
little refractory blanketing furnace gets the job done pretty damned
quick. |
| up next is the actual pouring. when the aluminum reaches
temperature (a hair under 1300 works pretty good), the furnace is opened
back up and the full crucible is removed with the lifting tongs, visible
in the lower left hand corner. the crucible is then set down on a block
with a piece of cardboard on top of it. the cardboard is to create a
"carbon barrier" to prevent the crucible from sticking to the
block and screwing things up pretty good. the pouring tongs are laid on
the ground with the ring around this block at this time. after the lifting
tongs are removed, the pouring tongs are lifted upwards, engaging the
crucible, and the retaining latch is closed to hold the crucible when it
is tilted at an extreme pouring angle. i do one tree of shifters at a
time, and maybe one or two small pieces with a tree as my crucible holds
abotu 25 lbs. max. for the next pour, the crucible is set back down by the
pouring tongs and picked back up with the lifting tongs and replaced, with
cardboard underneath every time. the fella on the right is yours truly,
and my best bud Beck is helping out on the left. everything else i do
myself.
|
| last, here's some finished castings of the new stuff. most
everything turned out great. a few rough spots on a couple, but it looks
like nothing i can't take care of when i go over these with the dremel and
files during metal work. first off, the whole group of em...
|
| detail of the WWI german
|
|
WWI doughboy with the stainless steel cigarette. most WWI helmets had a
crimped metal rim around the edge of the helmet, but the one my grandpa
bought me when i was 10 or 11 was apparently a very early production
helmet and didn't have the edging, so it wasn't there when i used it to
make this shifter knob. i really dig the dent in the top of the helmet.
|
| last one for now is a detail shot of the fireman. CG and
rustfarmer both asked me about doing a fireman, and i decided to make a
mold of it and cast several, which were all spoken for pretty quick. in
this run i did 1-8 and 13, and 13 worked out to being a single pour, which
is what we see here (already had a full tree with the firemen on it).
there's a hood around the back of the skull under the helmet like the one
i borrowed to sculpt from. i dig this one too. serial numbers for these
are all under the fireman's cross. Roothawg, yeah, it's the family business. we've been on the same farm for 200 years here, but sold our dairy herd in about '96. my dad got a job at the autozone distribution center and hated it (jumping jacks and crap and "team" this and "team" that drove him nuts). his best friend since 1st grade started sculpting a few years earlier while recuperating from having his foot cut reattached after having it cut off when a drunk hit him on his sportster, and by 1996 had gotten a commission to do a 30 or 40 ft sculpture group up the side of the world cultures building at california university of PA. it had about 15 7-8 ft figures from different historical periods weaved into a grape vine up the side of the building, cool piece. needing some technical expertise, he asked my dad to help him. fixing and fabricating things on the farm builds some pretty decent skills, and he did well. while working on this piece, they hatched the idea that they would start a bronze foundry to cast Alan's work and my dad would run the foundry. we then got a commission to do the zanesville bicentennial monument in 1998 (4 7 ft figures from the area's history) and the foundry had begun to sustain itself. we've done probably well over 100 lifesized and larger pieces since then for Alan Cottrill and other artists and there's currently 4 full time employees. coolest part about this whole thing is that probably 90% or more of the technical tools and machines we use were built by us, right here. i think the only things that were made by someone else are the ceramic tanks, and they've been improved heavily anyway. i helped out here and there early on, and regularly starting in '99 when on summer breaks from college. learned every step of the process that way. skipstitch on here asked me about aluminum casting in 04 and i decided to try it out because i wanted to make a shifter knob for my car. it took some research and trial and error to figure some thigns out, aluminum is persnickety. did a few sketches of shifter knobs i'd like to have and decided to cast some stuff, starting with the regular skull i advertised on here in january, and i've been busy ever since filling HAMBers' orders! i'm pretty amazed, actually, but i really like what i'm doing, even when school's in session and my foundry time is limited to evenings after teaching. every single piece has been handled by me individually at least 6 times, start to finish, so it's a pretty in-depth process, and every piece is consequently one of a kind in some slight way, and i serial number every one of them for that fact. anyways, i'd better go put the little furnace away if it's cool enough, and i've written a novel anyway... |
| the work continues. i bead blast the shell off and use
about a half a dozen dremel bits and wheels to get them looking right, and
can get around 16 to 20 done in a day's work. here's the WWI guys. i dig
the painted look, just enough to get the idea across and enough metal
showing that it's clear that they're cast metal. the doughboys will
probably be cleared with matte clear on top and gloss on the bottom
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